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The False Summit of South Sister

South Sister had been on my bucket list for a while. Thousands of people make it to the summit each summer. The route is not technical, has no known open crevasses, and has a pretty "mellow" slope. Still, that does not make it an easy hike: you gain over 4,000 ft in just 6 miles, with the real climbing packed into the final 3 miles. Knowing it would be a challenge, I trained on one of the more difficult trails up Spencer Butte, a local mountain in Eugene. My training route gains about 1,000 ft in 0.71 miles, roughly matching the steepest part of the South Sister Summit Trail. After training for about two months, I decided to scout the trail on June 12. My plan was to practice some route-finding and reach the plateau.

View from the top of Spencer Butte, the local training hike near Eugene
The summit of Spencer Butte at 2,000 ft. The Three Sisters, Mt. Bachelor, and Mt. Washington are visible on a clear day.

I left Eugene around 6 in the morning, and the drive to the trailhead took about 2.5 hours. As I got closer, I started to worry about the thick clouds hanging over the summit. They could create whiteout conditions at higher elevations. After eating breakfast in the parking lot, I started my journey. The first portion of the trail runs through a forest, and because it was still early in the season, deep snow covered the trail. About a quarter-mile in, as the trail grew steeper, I put on my microspikes. This section should be easy in summer without the snow, but early in the season, it takes some route-finding to make your way out of the forest.

Deep snow burying the path through the forest
The snow-covered trail.
A snowy slope in the trees with no visible tread to follow
A little route-finding required.

After making it out of the forest, I reached the plateau. One of the best parts of any climb is emerging above the tree line and watching the view suddenly open up. From the plateau, I got my first glimpse of South Sister, and the mountain looked magnificent. I could see clouds moving above the summit. Everything was quiet, with the snow absorbing every sound. My immediate thought was, "Am I really going to climb this?" Since my stamina felt good and I had no signs of altitude sickness, I decided to push as far as I could.

South Sister coming into sight above the tree line
My first glimpse of South Sister from the plateau.
The snowy bulk of the mountain filling the view ahead
Getting closer to the mountain.
The jagged outline of Broken Top across the snowfield
Broken Top from the plateau.
Ice covering the surface of Moraine Lake in June
Moraine Lake, still frozen.
Patches of pink-tinted snow stained by algae
Watermelon snow, also called red snow, is caused by a type of algae that lives in cold climates.

The plateau seemed to last forever. Snow started building up between my hiking shoes and microspikes, and my feet grew cold. I met a guy on skis, which looked like a great idea as he cut through the snowfield with ease. After the plateau, the real climb began. The slope grew significantly steeper as I approached Lewis Glacier, which has a 45-degree incline. The higher I climbed, the more the view opened up. Every time I looked back, I could see the entire Cascade Range across central Oregon. As my feet began to slip, I traded my hiking poles for my ice axe, which gave me much more confidence while anchoring myself on the slope. I took my time and kicked steps to make a "staircase" in the snow. I wished I had crampons; they would have helped a lot in that situation.

Diamond Peak far off on the horizon behind the route
Diamond Peak in the distance.
Mt. Bachelor standing alone in the view to the south
Mt. Bachelor to the south.
An ice axe planted in the steep snow of Lewis Glacier
Using my ice axe to climb Lewis Glacier.
The top of the mountain appearing beyond the glacier
The summit comes into view above Lewis Glacier.

Above Lewis Glacier, the trail flattened out a little and the summit came into view. It looked so close, but it was actually almost another 1,000 ft up. I began pushing toward it, scrambling over scree and large boulders along the way. Nothing was stable! I watched rocks tumble downhill after I stepped on them. Finally, I made it to the "summit." It looked like the top, but when I peered over the other side, there stood the real summit. The clouds had started rolling in again, though, and I did not want to risk it, so I headed back down.

The final rocky rise that turned out not to be the top
Climbing toward the false summit.
Loose scree and large rocks covering the upper slope
Scrambling over scree and boulders—nothing was stable!
A wide panorama looking out from high on the mountain
The view from the false summit.
Two neighboring Cascade peaks lined up to the north
Middle Sister (Hope) and North Sister (Faith) from the false summit of South Sister (Charity), as named by the natives.

I glissaded (butt-skied) down the steep section, which was definitely the best part of the trip. The whole Cascade Range stretched out in front of my feet as I slid down the mountain. At times, I felt myself going a little too fast, so I took the opportunity to practice self-arresting with my ice axe. After about three hours, I made it safely back to my car. I was really proud of myself and felt incredibly accomplished.

Sliding down the snow slope with the range spread out ahead
Glissading down with a breathtaking view.
Clouds drifting past at eye level high on the mountain
Feeling closer to God.
A parting view of South Sister from lower down the trail
One last look at South Sister. I still couldn't believe I had been up that high.